History of the Department of Food Science and Technology
It is interesting that my going to college and the birth of the
department of food science at Berkeley were almost coincidental.
I went to Berkeley because Stanford was too expensive. When I
registered at Berkeley, I did not know what to choose for a field to study.
Since coming from a prune farm, I chose horticulture, even though prunes were
selling for about two cents a pound. I loved botany, but I did not feel there
was a future in botany, and I could not earn a living in that field.
I was at Berkeley one semester when I suddenly noted there was a
study area termed fruit products. I judged it had something to do with the
preservation of foods and, since I had worked in a cannery, I thought it would
be interesting to look into the field of fruit products.
I met Professor W. V. Cruess, who was in charge. He appeared
interested in students, so I changed my major to fruit products. I found Cruess
to be a very helpful and hardworking person, but also a hard taskmaster,
although I think this was good. Fruit products at that time was under Professor
Bioletti, a viticulturist, who headed the department of viticulture and zymology
at Berkeley. Cruess was a member of this department, and the evolving field of
fruit products was still under Bioletti.
About that time, Prohibition came into effect. Professor Cruess,
under Professor Bioletti (there is a Bioletti Way on this campus), worked in the
department in the field of zymology or winemaking in Hilgard Hall in Berkeley.
When Prohibition became a reality, Professor Cruess wondered what he should do.
Bioletti continued in the field of viticulture, but what was Cruess, a chemist,
to do? Grapes were still grown in spite of Prohibition, but Professor Cruess was
concerned with the technology of winemaking.
Cruess noted that there were surpluses of various fruits in
California and thought they might be converted into products that would be
salable. He, therefore, started to work in the area of fruit products. About
that time, the new sub-department of fruit products came into being.
In any event, Professor Cruess started to work on products such
as fruit cocktail, fruit nectars, fruit juices, fruit soda pops, etc.
In my junior year, Cruess gave me a job making soda pops with
fruit syrup bases which were then shipped to the Nut Tree for sales trials. Even
though the products were very acceptable, they did not take on commercially. Ten
cents a bottle compared with five cents for regular soda pop was too much.
About that time, two new men, John Irish and Arthur Christie,
were added to the department. Irish worked on juices and such products.
Christie, on the other hand, was employed about the time when early fall rains
ruined tons and tons of prunes that were drying on trays in the sun. Christie
teamed up with an engineer by the name of Ridley, and the two started working on
the artificial drying of fruits and, to my knowledge, were the first ones to
come up with the idea of using the counter current forced draft dehydrator for
drying prunes and other fruits.
About that time too, there was a developing interest in the
mechanical drying of walnuts, and E. H. Guthier and Paul Nichols were brought in
to pursue this field. Later came Maynard Joslyn and George Marsh who entered the
field of freezing, and Reese Vaughn and L. McClung to cover the field of food
microbiology. I believe they are the first in the universities to do this type
of work, although there was Dutch Diehl in the Department of Agriculture and
Birdseye in the commercial arena. When Prohibition was repealed, Joslyn and
Marsh also led the way in doing some of the early work on wine, and led the way
until the department of enology evolved at Davis.
I came in the department because there was a surplus of prunes,
and the prune association established a marvelous graduate fellowship which
offered $75.00 a month to a person to work on prune products.
One of the products we came up with was prune juice. I could not
believe anyone would want prune juice, but I did think prune puree or pulp would
be an excellent product in ice cream, bread, sodas, etc. And it was, but the one
that took on and sold was prune juice.
So it went, although the new developments were not generally
accepted at Berkeley by others in the College of Agriculture. I remember so well
a Professor by the name of Byrd who taught a course in plant nutrition and who
spent a great deal of time on fertilizers, including manure. He did not think
much of what was going on in fruit products. As a matter of fact, he said to me
one day with a sneer, "How is the jelly and jam scientist today?" He
felt it was alright to work on manure, but not on something we eat.
Whether or not these attitudes had an effect, I do not know, but
I do know that Dean Hutchison encouraged Cruess to get into more basic work. In
line with this, Gordon Mackinney was brought into the department to study
carotenoids and other color constituents in foods. Marsh, Joslyn, and Vaughn
changed to more basic areas, and Herman Phaff and I started working on yeast,
and so it went.
There was a great expansion in courses. Strange as it may seem,
the courses were popular, especially for students majoring in chemistry who felt
information in the area of foods would lead the way to jobs. At first, there
were survey lectures and laboratory courses. Later, specialty courses came
along, such as one by Mackinney on color and one given by Joslyn, Phaff, and
myself on yeast.
I remember so well, as these courses were developing, Cruess had
a meeting with the department and they talked about requirements for a major.
Some of the people wanted calculus and more basic courses, but Cruess thought we
would lose students by doing this. In fact, more came in.
So it went until World War II when the department was called on
to work on dehydration of vegetables. I think the department made some excellent
contributions in this area. The importance of blanching prior to dehydration and
reduction of moisture content to a low level were ably demonstrated.
During the war, a number of us became involved in Quartermaster's
activities. When the war ended, we again became active in changing the
department. I believe it was about this time that the name of the department was
changed to food technology, and it was separated from viticulture. I eventually
became chairman and, during my period, pressure was building to move the
department to Davis. It so happened that Tom Richards of the Bercut-Richards
Canning Company in Sacramento had a great friend in the Senate - Senator Earl
Desmond. They got together and decided there should be a food technology
department at Davis.
The move to Davis was an interesting and exciting one. It was
decided that all members of the department, except Mackinney, Joslyn, and
Cruess, would move to Davis. I remember so well when Vaughn, Marsh, and I were
among the first who came to Davis. It was exciting developing the department
here. There was a great expansion. We had the Pilot Plant, we had laboratories
for basic work, and the new facility had an acceptance laboratory which, to my
knowledge, was one of the first in the country.
The experience at Davis has been a good one. We were welcomed by
other departments and have worked with them.
Enrollment in the department grew, courses grew, the reputation
of the department grew, not only throughout the United States, but throughout
the world.
In my opinion, the department at Davis is number one in the
country today. I say this because among the pioneers in the field, Oregon is
certainly holding its own, but M.I.T. is changing and moving toward what they
call bio-technology, whatever it is. There are many new departments, some of
which offer a Ph.D. in Food Science. We do not have such a program at Davis [a
Ph.D. program in Food Science has been added since this writing], although
students in Food Science can pursue a Ph.D. in basic science while working on a
problem of interest with a department member.
We have an outstanding department at Davis. We have outstanding
members on the staff, we have expanded in the areas of research, we have
expanded teaching and, above all, the number of women coming into the field is
dramatic. When food technology was started in Berkeley, we had one or two girls
in the field. When we started at Davis, we had a few, but not many. We brought
in Dr. Ellie Henreiner to run our acceptance laboratory, so we even had a lady
on the staff.
I will close this by saying it has been a thrill for me to see
the developments at Davis, how the department works so well with other
departments, and how it has developed in teaching, research, and service to the
state in a magnificent manner. We have a marvelous department.